Pour a small concrete pad

Step by step

1. 1

   Pick the spot and plan for drainage

   Choose firm, level ground. For a patio or grill pad, plan to slope the finished surface about 1/8 inch per foot away from any building so water runs off; pour an AC condenser pad level. Pour early in the morning: concrete poured in Parker's afternoon heat dries too fast and cracks. Call 811 before you dig.

2. 2

   Mark and dig out the area

   Stake the corners and run string lines. Dig about 8 inches below where you want the top of the pad (4 inches of gravel plus 4 inches of concrete), and 6 inches wider than the pad on every side so you have room for forms and stakes. Hit caliche? Break it up with a digging bar.

3. 3

   Build and square the forms

   Cut 2x6 boards to length and set them on edge along the string lines, with the top edge at the finished height. Drive stakes every 2 to 3 feet on the outside and screw them to the boards, keeping stake tops below the form top. Measure both diagonals; when they match, the form is square. Set the forms to your planned slope (or dead level for an AC pad) with a level.

4. 4

   Lay and compact the gravel base

   Spread 4 inches of compactible gravel in two layers, dampen each one lightly, and tamp it hard and flat. A firm base is what keeps a pad from settling and cracking.

5. 5

   Set the reinforcement and oil the forms

   Cut rebar into a grid about 18 to 24 inches on center, tie the crossings with wire, and keep it 2 inches in from the forms. Set the grid on rebar chairs so it sits in the middle of the slab, not on the gravel. Wipe the inside of the forms with form-release oil so they pull off cleanly.

6. 6

   Mix the concrete

   Mix one or two bags at a time in a wheelbarrow. Add water a little at a time; use the amount of water printed on the bag. You want a stiff, even mix like thick oatmeal. Extra water makes it easier to pour and much weaker once it cures.

7. 7

   Place and screed

   Dump the first batch in a far corner and work toward yourself. Push concrete into the corners with a shovel and tap the outside of the forms with a hammer to settle out air pockets. Drag a straight 2x4 across the form tops in a sawing motion to strike the surface flat, filling any low spots as you go.

8. 8

   Float, then wait for the bleed water

   Right after screeding, float the surface with a magnesium float to push the stones down and bring a smooth layer of cream up. Then stop. Water will rise to the surface; don't touch it again until that sheen is gone.

9. 9

   Edge and broom the surface

   When a firm thumb press leaves only about a 1/4 inch dent, run an edger around the perimeter for a rounded, chip-resistant edge. Pull a damp broom across the pad in one direction for a non-slip finish. A 4 by 4 pad doesn't need a control joint; anything over about 8 feet on a side does.

10. 10

    Cure it slowly

    Keep the pad damp for 7 days: mist it and cover it with plastic sheeting, weighed down at the edges. In summer, check twice a day. Light foot traffic is fine after 24 to 48 hours, strip the forms after 2 to 3 days, and wait a week before setting heavy equipment on it.