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Repair drywall holes and cracks

Fix nail pops, doorknob holes, big punch-throughs, and the cracks that open over doors and windows, then match the texture so the patch disappears.

Time
1 day
Difficulty
Easy
Category
Around the House
Steps
9
How to Patch a Drywall HoleAsk This Old House

Before you start

  • Before cutting into a wall, look for outlets and switches nearby and cut shallow. Wires and pipes run inside walls, often straight up and down from a box.
  • Sanding joint compound makes fine dust. Wear an N95 and safety glasses, and close off the room or open a window.
  • Homes built before 1978 may have lead paint, and texture or joint compound from before about 1990 may contain asbestos. Have it tested before you cut or sand.
  • Large cracks that keep reopening, doors that suddenly stick, or cracks wider than 1/4 inch can mean the foundation is moving. Have it looked at before you patch.

Step by step

  1. 1

    Size up the damage

    Holes smaller than a nickel (nails, anchors, screws) just need spackle. Holes up to about 6 inches take a self-adhesive mesh patch. Anything larger gets a new piece of drywall. Hairline cracks running from the corners of doors and windows are common here: the house moves with the soil and with big day-to-night temperature swings.

  2. 2

    Fill small holes with spackle

    Press a little lightweight spackle into the hole with a putty knife, then scrape it flush with a single pass. For a popped nail, drive a drywall screw an inch or two away to pull the drywall tight, sink the old nail, and spackle both.

  3. 3

    Patch medium holes with a mesh patch

    Trim any torn paper around the hole with a utility knife, stick the mesh patch over it, and spread joint compound over the patch with a 6 inch knife, feathering it a few inches past the edges. Let it dry, then apply a second, wider coat.

  4. 4

    Cut out large holes

    Check for wires and pipes first. Draw a square around the damage, cut it out with a jab saw, and screw two pieces of 1x2 inside the opening as backer strips, one on each side, with drywall screws. Cut a drywall patch to fit and screw it to the strips.

  5. 5

    Tape the seams and cracks

    For a large patch, lay mesh tape over each seam. For a crack, widen it slightly into a V with a utility knife, brush out the dust, and lay mesh tape over it. Cover the tape with a thin coat of joint compound, pressing it flat with the knife.

  6. 6

    Build up thin coats

    Apply two or three coats, each one wider and thinner than the last, letting each dry fully. The dry air in Parker speeds drying, but thick coats still crack and shrink. Thin coats dry fast and sand easily.

  7. 7

    Sand it smooth

    Once it's dry, sand lightly with a sanding sponge until the edges disappear under your fingertips. Shine a flashlight across the wall at a low angle to spot ridges and low spots, and touch them up.

  8. 8

    Match the texture

    Most walls in the area have an orange peel or knockdown texture, and a smooth patch on a textured wall stands out. Practice the spray texture on cardboard to match the pattern, then spray the patch lightly, feathering it into the surrounding wall. For knockdown, let it set a few minutes and flatten it with a wide knife.

  9. 9

    Prime and paint

    Spot-prime every patch, or it will flash through as a dull spot. Paint the patch, then paint the whole wall corner to corner if the old paint has faded or the touch-up still shows.

Pro tip

Wipe your patch with a barely damp sponge instead of sanding it. It smooths the edges with almost no dust, and you can do it between coats to save the sanding for the very end.