Shopping checklist
Replace a toilet
Half day · Moderate · 10 steps
Materials
| Done | Item | Quantity | SKU | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ToiletMatch the rough-in; most are 12 in | 1 | Ask | ||
| Wax ringUse a new one every time the toilet comes up | 1 | Ask | ||
| Closet boltsBrass won't rust in place | 1 set | Ask | ||
| Braided toilet supply line3/8 in compression to 7/8 in toilet thread | 1 | Ask | ||
| Toilet shimsOnly if the toilet rocks | 1 pack | 009326412528 | $3.99 | |
| Angle stop, 1/2 x 3/8 in compressionOnly if your old shutoff drips or won't close | 1 | 052151060037 | $10.39 | |
| White latex tub & tile caulkFor the base; leave the back open | 1 tube | 077027142099 | $5.99 | |
| Toilet seatIf your toilet doesn't come with one | 1 | Ask |
Tools
- Adjustable wrench
- Putty knife
- Sponge, bucket, and old towels
- Small hacksaw or oscillating tool
- Tape measure
- Torpedo level
- Screwdriver
- Caulk gun
Before you start
- A toilet weighs 60 to 100 lb and is awkward to carry. Lift with your legs, get a helper, and take the tank off first if it's a two-piece.
- Porcelain breaks into razor-sharp edges. Wear gloves, and tighten bolts by hand and in small steps so you don't crack the base.
- Old toilets and wax rings are full of bacteria. Wear gloves, keep your hands away from your face, and wash up when you're done.
- Keep a rag in the drain while the toilet is off. Sewer gas is unpleasant and can be harmful in a closed bathroom.
- If the flange is broken, the subfloor feels soft, or water has damaged the floor, stop and call a licensed plumber.
Prices are current as of printing and may change. Bring this list to the counter, or call (928) 669-9254. If we don't have it, we can order it.
Replace a toilet
Pull out an old, cracked, or water-hungry toilet and set a new one on a fresh wax ring. When a tune-up won't fix it, this is the next step.
- Time
- Half day
- Difficulty
- Moderate
- Category
- Plumbing
- Steps
- 10
Before you start
- A toilet weighs 60 to 100 lb and is awkward to carry. Lift with your legs, get a helper, and take the tank off first if it's a two-piece.
- Porcelain breaks into razor-sharp edges. Wear gloves, and tighten bolts by hand and in small steps so you don't crack the base.
- Old toilets and wax rings are full of bacteria. Wear gloves, keep your hands away from your face, and wash up when you're done.
- Keep a rag in the drain while the toilet is off. Sewer gas is unpleasant and can be harmful in a closed bathroom.
- If the flange is broken, the subfloor feels soft, or water has damaged the floor, stop and call a licensed plumber.
Step by step
- 1
Measure the rough-in before you buy
Measure from the finished wall behind the toilet to the center of the bolt caps at the base. Most homes are 12 inches; some are 10 or 14, and the new toilet has to match. Note whether the bowl is round or elongated so it fits the space, and pick a 1.28 gallon-per-flush model to save water.
- 2
Shut off the water and empty the toilet
Turn the shutoff valve under the tank clockwise until it stops. Flush and hold the handle to drain the tank, then sponge out the tank and push the water left in the bowl down the drain with a plunger or sponge it out. Lay old towels around the base.
- 3
Disconnect the supply line
Unscrew the supply line from the bottom of the tank. Look at the shutoff valve while you're there: if it's crusted with hard-water scale, drips, or didn't close all the way, replace it now while everything is apart.
- 4
Remove the old toilet
Pry off the bolt caps and unscrew the nuts at the base. If they spin or are rusted solid, cut the bolts with a small hacksaw or oscillating tool. Rock the toilet gently to break the wax seal, then lift it straight up and carry it out on a towel. Stuff a rag in the drain to block sewer gas.
- 5
Clean and check the flange
Scrape all the old wax off the flange and the floor with a putty knife. The flange should be screwed tight to the floor and sit level with or slightly above the finished floor. If it's cracked, loose, or well below the floor, fix the flange before going further, or call a plumber.
- 6
Set the new bolts and wax ring
Slide new closet bolts into the flange slots, heads down, so they stand straight up. Press the wax ring onto the flange, centered over the drain, with the flat side down. Pull the rag out of the drain right before you set the toilet.
- 7
Set the bowl
Lift the bowl, line the holes in its base over the bolts, and lower it straight down in one go. Press down evenly with your weight, rocking slightly, until it sits flat on the floor. Don't lift it back up once it's down; a disturbed wax ring leaks. If you have to, start over with a new ring.
- 8
Tighten, level, and shim
Put on the washers and nuts and tighten them a little at a time, side to side, until snug. Porcelain cracks if you crank them. Check level across the bowl rim. If the toilet rocks, slip toilet shims under the gaps, then trim the shims and cut the bolts down so the caps fit.
- 9
Attach the tank and supply line
If the tank comes separate, set the tank gasket on the bowl, lower the tank over the bolts, and tighten its nuts evenly until the tank sits level and doesn't wobble. Connect a new braided supply line hand-tight plus a quarter turn, open the shutoff slowly, and let the tank fill.
- 10
Test, then caulk the base
Flush a dozen times and check the base, the tank bolts, and the supply line with a dry paper towel. Once it's dry for a day, run a bead of caulk around the front and sides of the base. Leave the back open so a future leak shows itself instead of rotting the subfloor.
Pro tip
Lay the new toilet on its side on a towel and dry-fit it over the bolts before you put the wax ring on. You'll know it sits flat and lines up, and you only get one shot with the wax.